Archive for category Workshop

Wing Stand Construction Part 5 (3/25/10)

1.0 Hours -

The ongoing saga of my wing stand construction continues.  I’ve now attached the aluminum angle and associated leveling hardware to two of the wood columns.  The mechanism worked great as they were easy to level.  However, I’ll wait to complete the other two stands until I’m ready to use them.  The reason for this is that our garage floor is so unlevel that I will have to decide where I will build the wings, set up the stands there and not move them from that position.  From my initial measurement, the slope of the garage floor may require one end of the stand to be an inch lower than the other end.  Once the wing kit arrives, I’ll use the actual spar to make sure the second stands can keep the spar level.

The finished product. As you can see, the leveling system works perfectly.

, ,

Leave a Comment

Still More Wing Stand Construction (3/22/10)

3.0 Hours -

I’ve been working on my wing stands off and on over the last few days.  The more I work on them, the more I think I’m probably going overboard on their design.  However, I made my plan and started building them, so I’m sticking to the design.

The concern comes from the threaded rods I’m going to use to hold the aluminum angle where the spar will attach.  These rods will allow me to level the angle and, thus, the spar.  However, I could also do this simply by drilling a second hole through the angle and using two bolts through the angle/wood column.  My system is making it more complicated than it probably needs to be.  On the other hand, my garage floor is so unlevel, that the threaded rod may work in my favor if I need to move the wing stands at some point mid-construction.

Concerns aside, I’ve finished the wood portions of all four stands, and I’ve also finished fabricating all of  the aluminum parts that will be used for attaching the spars to the stands.  My fabricated parts will get the job done, but I’m putting no effort into making them look pretty.  Probably a good thing I’m not trying to build the plane from plans!

The wood portions of the wing stands are completely finished.

All the metal components of the wing stands have been and finished. The camera made the rods look bent, but they are not.

This is how the metal components will be assembled on the final stands. The long piece of angle at the top will hold the wing's spar and be attached to the wood column with a 3/8" bolt. The threaded rod will allow me to make fine adjustments on each stand.

A close up of how the rod will attach to the long piece of angle.

A close up of how the rod will attach to the wood column. A 3/8" bolt will go through the hole on the right and through the wood column.

, ,

Leave a Comment

Wing Stand Construction Part 3 (3/17/10)

1.0 Hours -

More wing stand construction this evening.  Two down, two to go.  However, I’ve diminished my scrap plywood supply, so construction is at a halt until I make a Lowe’s/Home Depot run.

No pictures since this is the same as in my previous post on the wing stands.

, ,

Leave a Comment

More Wing Stand Construction (3/15/10)

2.0 Hours -

The work in this post actually occurred in short spurts over a couple of days, but I’m lumping it together.

With the bases cut and the columns glued and screwed, I was ready to put them together.  However, I wasn’t happy with the tops of three of the columns being uneven.  Granted, the tops being uneven doesn’t even matter, but for appearance sake, I wanted to even them out.  After all, when I’m done with the stands, I plan to give them to another builder and I don’t want them to think my work was sloppy!

To even out the stands, I just ran them through my band saw.  Due to their length, I couldn’t balance them on the band saw table by myself, so I convinced my girlfriend, Amber, to hold one end of the column up while I cut the other.

Once the columns were even, I started attaching them to the bases.  This was relatively simple, and I had all of the bases attached within 45 minutes.

Attaching the bases to the columns was a bit of a stretch. Please ignore my gut hanging out!

The basic stands are done. Now they just need to be reinforced.

Finally, I started working on the reinforcements on the base of one stand.  After about an hour, I had the first stand completed.  One thing is for certain…these stands will be sturdy.  Based on the first stand, they should have no problem supporting the wings.  Building the rest of the stands should go more quickly now that I’ve got it figured out (more or less). 

This is the first complete stand...at least the wood portions are done.

For comparison, a finished stand next to an unfinished one.

, ,

Leave a Comment

Started Building Wing Stands (3/13/10)

1.0 Hours -

With the empennage done (essentially) and the wings on order, I decided to start building my wing stands even though it will be several months before I need them.  Searching the internet, I found many different designs.  However, I needed a stand that would not need to be bolted/screwed into the ceiling or floor of the garage as our landlord probably wouldn’t be too happy about that!  I also didn’t want to go too overboard on the design since this is only a construction stand…not a jig.  In the end, I morphed a couple of designs together.  While I would like to say it is unique, I’m sure someone else has built the exact stand in the past.  Below is a drawing I made in Google Sketchup.  If anyone wants the actual Sketchup file with dimensions, leave a comment and I’ll email it too you.

This is a drawing of my wingstand that I did in Google Sketchup. I'll make four of these.

The base of the stand is 3/4” plywood, while the column is made by gluing and screwing two 2”x6”x60” planks together.  Additional column supports are made out of 2×4 sections and plywood or MDF triangles.  The bracket that holds the wing spar will be made out of a section of aluminum angle.  I’ll probably just reuse the angle that I used to make the rudder trailing edge.  The angle will be supported by a threaded rod (not drawn into the picture) that will join the angle to the column.  The rod will be adjustable so that the angle can be leveled.  Two stands will be needed for each wing.  While I’m not sure if I will build the wings simultaneously or one at a time,  I’m building a total of 4 stands.

Today, I got as far as cutting the bases and planks to size.  I also glued and screwed the columns together.

The wing stand columns are made out of a 2"x6"x10' that is cut in half, then glued and screwed together.

The grain is lined up so that any warping should be opposite on each board...supposedly this will keep them straight.

It's not attached to the plyboard yet, but it looks like a wing stand.

, ,

Leave a Comment

New Tools and Some Workshop Organization (1/10/10)

After working on the plane Saturday, the workshop was in a bit of a disastrous state.  This, combined with my desire to find a better storage solution for my completed empennage sub-assemblies, gave me an excuse to make a trip to Lowes and then head into the garage for a little over an hour.

The 5 empennage sub-assemblies are fairly large and difficult to store.  Remember, you build these and then set them aside until you are ready to attach them to the fuselage. 

The horizontal stabilizer is, by far, the largest of the pieces measuring in at over 8 feet long.  However, it is also the easiest to store.  It is hanging from a bike rack mounted to the garage wall.  The rack is solid and it keeps the piece off the floor and out of the way.

The remaining parts still in need of a storage solution are the vertical stabilizer, rudder, and two elevators (of which I’ve finished the vertical stabilizer and rudder).  For these, I decided to make a four-slot rack (somewhat resembling a bike rack) out of PVC.  I chose PVC because it is strong, very easy to work with, and I had about 30 feet of 3/4” pipe on hand.  After quickly sketching my design, I ran to Lowes to pick up all the necessary fittings.  Forty-five minutes after returning, I had my rack assembled.

I built a rack out of PVC to store my empennage parts.

Top view of empennage rack.

Next, a little workshop clean-up.  All tools stored properly and tables cleaned (ok, tables cleared off using some high pressure air!).  I also started to clean the clecos that were used to glue the rudder.  These came out fairly clean thanks to the Boelube coating I gave them, but they still had a fair amount of tank sealant on them.  I decided to soak them in some acetone overnight and see what happens.  If I ruin the twenty or so clecos, no big loss.

Finally, I have bought a couple more new tools recently.  From Brown Tool, I purchased #6 and #10 Screw Dimple Die Sets and another flush squeeze set so that I would have two flush squeezes with the larger diameter face.  From Avery Tools, I bought an “Oops Hole Saver Rivet Kit.”  This kit contains 6 different sizes of NAS1097 rivets.  The NAS1097 rivets, also known as “oops rivets” or “hole saver rivets,” have a factory head one size smaller than what you would normally find on that size shaft.  For example, a NAS1097AD4-3.5 has the shaft diameter of a 4- rivet, but the head size of a 3- rivet.  They can be used in holes where you had to drill the hole larger but want to keep the head size the same as other rivets in that area, or, they can be used for nutplate installation.  On nutplate installation, using a smaller head allows you to countersink the aluminum sheet rather than dimple it.  Dimpling the sheet is easy, but dimpling the nutplate is not.  The NAS1097’s allow you to avoid this.

From left to right: Male #10 screw dimple die, Female #10 screw dimple die, flush squeeze set, #6 screw male dimple die, #6 screw female dimple die.

Avery's "Oops Hole Saver Rivet Kit" contains NAS1097 rivets of various sizes.

, , , , , ,

Leave a Comment

New Workshop (12/28/09)

It has been almost twenty days since my last post.  I haven’t given up on the RV build, I’ve just been moving to a new house.  While moving, in itself, is never fun.  This move has its advantages.  We are now in a house instead of an apartment, there’s a nice yard for the dogs, I’m a little closer to work and, the biggest benefit, I now have a 2-car airplane factory!

My previous apartment had a small one car garage which would have been sufficient for building the empennage and wings, but starting the fuse would mean moving to a hangar and paying rent there.  Now, I probably have enough room to completely build the fuselage, engine and all, and only move to a hangar when I’m ready to attach the wings.  Of course, this means I have to live in this house for 5-15 years!

I’ve attached a few pictures of my new workshop.  I’m still fine tuning the setup and it is still a bit of a mess as we have been piling junk in the garage as a staging area for moving it into the house.  I have to admit, the extra space is nice.

In a couple of days, I should be ready to get back to building.  First thing on the list is to glue the trailing edge of the rudder.

Still some organizing to do.

So much more space than my old garage.

Storing completed sub-assemblies takes some creativity.

,

Leave a Comment

New Tools (sort of)

I’ve accumulated a few new tools and other shop stuff since my big tool posting on 9/2/09.  I’ve written about a couple tool purchases (torque wrench, pneumatic squeezer), but  I’ve come to realize that it is the small stuff you need to know about when getting ready to start your build.  So, since I’ve been taking a couple days off from building due to a sore back, here’s an update:

Upper Cabinet for Tool Chest – I bought the upper cabinet for my tool chest early on and I’m glad I did.  The tool chest went from practically empty to pretty darn full in a couple of months.  If you can afford a bigger chest, go for it.  I couldn’t be happier with this Pro-Works chest from Wal-Mart.

Tool Chest Full

The Pro-Works tool chest is great!

Hardware Cabinets – The kits come with a lot of little bags full of rivets and other hardware.  To keep all of it organized and quickly accessible, you need some sort of cabinet with a lot of drawers or bins.  These are from Lowes and were about $15 each.

Hardware Cabinets

Some sort of organization system is essential for all those rivets!

Label Maker – I bought this Brother Label maker from Costco.  The labels look great and are quick to make and apply.  Eventually, I’ll get some clear label tape and this labeler will even be used to label my panel.

Labeler

Brother P-Touch labelers are cheap but good.

#21 drill bits – The only #21 drill I had was a threaded drill for my angle attachment.  The angle attachment is a pain to use, so I bought some regular old #21s.

#21 Drill

#21 Drill

Pop Rivet Dimpler – I thought I was going to need this handy little dimpler for the horizontal stabilizer skins, but I figured out how dimple the holes near the leading edge with my C-frame.  however, I know this will still come in handy and I’ll probably have to get the larger size as well.  To use this, you just squeeze the pieces together by pulling on the nail with a pop-rivet gun…simple!

Pop Rivet Dimpler

A pop rivet dimpler allows you to dimple in tight quarters.

Avery Deburr Tool – I didn’t like the multi-burr tool, that came with my tool kit, for deburring small holes.  This one from Avery is much easier to use on all those rivet holes.

Avery Deburr

Avery Speed Deburr

Hand Seamer – When prepping the ribs, you have to make sure the flange is perpendicular to the webbing.  A hand seamer makes this simple.  It’s basically a hand operated sheet metal brake.

Hand Seamer

A hand seamer is just a small sheet metal brake.

Scotch-Brite Pads – The maroon pads are great for scuffing the surface before priming or even a little light deburring.  Each pad is about the size of a letter sized piece of paper.  I bought one at my local NAPA and cut it into 2×2 squares.

Mandrel to Mount 6” Scotch-Brite Wheel in Drill Press – Rather than buying a grinder, I bought a steel mandrel from Avery which allows me to chuck my Scotch-Brite wheel into my drill press.  The advantage is the slower speed of the drill press compared to a grinder.  I’m not sure if having the wheel horizontal is any easier than having it vertical in a grinder.

Scotch-Brite Mandrel

Mounting the Scotch-Brite wheel in the drill press allows it to spin at a slower speed than in most grinders.

Vise – Nothing fancy…a four inch vise from Harbor Freight.  This is essential for holding pieces while bending.

Vise

A vise is an essential tool.

Respirator – MEK and primer, while supposedly not carcinogens, smell nasty.  A simple charcoal filter respirator eliminates the odor.

Respirator

A must when working with MEK and primers.

Countersink Cage – I bought a second countersink cage so that I could set one up with a #40 countersink and one with a #30 and hopefully not have to change them very often.  Set it and forget it!

Countersink Cage 2

Having two countersink cages allows me to set each up with a different bit and leave them.

Leave a Comment

Workshop Setup Complete…Almost (9/11/09)

With the construction of a third work table (this one will permanently hold bench top tools such as a drill press, band saw and/or grinder) my garage has been transformed into a descent looking airplane making factory.

This third bench is constructed the same as the EAA 1000 workbench.  However, the work surface is a mere 30×30 inches and it is on castors.  Eventually, the table will hold a drill press, band saw and possible a grinder.  The castors will allow the table to move around the garage as needed and also rotate so  that the tool I need to work with is accessible.  As much fun as I’ve had building the three benches, I’m tired of working with wood and ready to get my hands on some sheet metal! Bench Tool Table

The following pictures show an overall view of the garage…I mean airplane factory.Workshop 2Workshop 1

, , ,

Leave a Comment

Second Workbench Built (8/30/09)

I completed my second workbench today.  This one is identical to the first.  However, it is amazing how much simpler it was to put this one together.  Not only did it go together more quickly, but it is perfectly level and has no wobble.  The first bench has a slight front-back wobble that will need to be fixed by evening the legs.  Best of all, both tables are the same height.

, ,

Leave a Comment

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.